Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
